Never mind weddings or job interviews. When it comes to getting dressed, the past few weeks have confirmed that the biggest challenge is what to wear to the office during a heatwave. I write this as Europe is grappling with record-breaking temperatures due to the climate crisis. In the UK, fire brigades have issued wildfire alerts, with temperatures reaching more than 36C. My street now resembles an art installation, with varying colours and patterns of bed sheets taped to windows in the battle against the heat. The corner shop has pivoted to selling fans. And everyone is lingering just that little bit longer in the freezer aisle.
Given the somewhat apocalyptic conditions, getting dressed to go to the office is the last thing anyone wants to think about, mainly because it feels wrong to be working. But for those of us who haven’t timed our annual leave to coincide with the heatwave peak, it’s off to work we go.
The thing most people get wrong about this sort of thing is treating the office like it’s not the office. This isn’t the place for your favourite beach dress or those Paul Mescal-inspired short shorts. Remember, it’s an ergonomic chair, not a deckchair. The main goal is to not feel uncomfortable, either physically (so many opportunities for sweat) or professionally (a hemline can suddenly feel surprisingly short sitting on those weird pouffe chairs every “breakout” space now seems to feature).
So, some guidelines. Now, the City will obviously have a very different dress code to an edgy advertising agency, so let’s just go with smart casual. For those adhering to strict “business formal”, I wish you well. Hopefully the air conditioning and eye-watering bonuses will offer some comfort.
If you don’t want to feel as though you’re living inside a greenhouse, start by reading the care label of clothes. Cotton, silk, merino wool and linen are breathable fabrics, meaning they can make the heat more bearable. Many brands now use something they list as a “poly blend” – this usually features a synthetic such as polyester. These trap heat, so not only will you sweat, but that sweat will have no means of escape. Semi-synthetic fabrics including modal (sometimes called Tencel) and viscose absorb moisture too, so choose your fighter wisely.
A couple of years ago, Brad Pitt was asked why he was wearing a skirt at a film premiere in Berlin. At the time it was 35C. “It’s all about the breeze,” he replied. Around the same time, the Spanish prime minister, Pedro Sánchez, urged workers to ditch neck ties. They were on to something. Loose airy cuts, rather than anything resembling shapewear, is key.
If you want to bare arms, maybe try a swing vest rather than a tight tank or cami. A roomy shirt is always a winner. For dresses, go midi over maxi and avoid anything that gives “it’s 5 o’clock somewhere” energy – this includes tiers, crochet and palm prints. Look for a wider strap that covers a bra strap. Longline tailored shorts also make sense. Many men seem to be following Thomas Tuchel and Andy Burnham’s lead by swapping out a quarter-zip jumper for a polo shirt. That’s fine. But there is a worrying number of cargo shorts being worn. It is unclear how they have broken free from their previous confinement to the garden/DIY jobs. Sometimes they are teamed with a dress shirt. Don’t do this.
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On social media, flip-flops (occasionally with a tiny heel) and mesh jelly shoes are being hailed as the “shoe of the summer”. Fun for the Love Island villa or for strolling to your local pub garden – less so for a team meeting. Smarter options include a slingback flat or a leather sandal that doesn’t showcase your whole foot. There is a nice synergy between a tailored trouser and a Birkenstock. But remember, some people just feel weird about exposed toes at a tea point. If you want to wear trainers or a loafer, gen Z have the right idea – pair them with a sock that hits above the ankle.
Of course, there is only so much clothing can do in extreme temperatures. The next big frontier in fashion is climate-resilient clothing. Uniqlo, which was forced to close some of its stores in Europe in June because of the searing heat, already has a range geared towards UV protection. Brrr, a US-based technology company, has developed a “triple chill effect” fabric that helps reduce the temperature of the skin. At Paris fashion week in June, which fell during a record-breaking heatwave, Rick Owens sent models wearing inflatable jogging suits that he described as a “personal air conditioning system” down the catwalk. Designed in collaboration with Adidas, they featured in-built fans to circulate air around the wearer’s body alongside ice vests – the same kind being worn by footballers at the World Cup. Owens has always riffed on dystopian dressing, but now mainstream brands are taking note too. We’ve constantly been told not to sweat the small stuff. Soon, though, worrying about what to wear may just be a much bigger issue.
