They form part of the staple diet of most people in Goa. Now, traditional breads from the state, such as pao, poie and undo, may get a geographical indication (GI) tag, with the Goa State Council for Science and Technology filing an application for it.
“The GI certification will help in two ways. It will conserve the traditional practices in preparing these breads, and promote their marketing and branding. Consumers will also feel assured about quality. The benefit of better pricing will be passed on to producers,” said Deepak Parab, nodal officer, Patent Information Centre, Goa State Council for Science and Technology. He added that the application for the combined GI tag for these traditional breads had been filed last month.
GI certification will also enable traditional bakeries to confirm to norms of the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) and other standards. Parab said GI tag would also boost the possibility of these breads being exported, especially to European countries and the Gulf, where the Goan diaspora has a strong presence.
The baking of pao was pioneered by Portuguese colonialists in Goa. Goan bakers shifted to cities like Mumbai with this knowledge. Goa has a number of traditional bakeries, where the bakers have been following the same practices for generations. While these breads have been traditionally prepared using toddy, which give them their distinct flavour, sweetish taste and aroma, some have shifted to using commercial yeast.
Agapito Menezes, president of the All Goa Bakers Association, however, noted that traditional bakeries had to contend with a host of issues, such as non-availability of toddy and rising input costs. The availability of toddy has declined due to non-availability of toddy tappers, and only a few bakeries in pockets of the state, such as Margao, used it. “We cannot stock and use old toddy; it has to be used that day itself,” said Menezes, who is based on the Divar Island near Panaji.
Goa has around 800 bakeries and confectioners, of which around 700 manufacture these breads. However, many traditional Goan bakers had sold out to migrants from states like Uttar Pradesh and Bihar. While traditional breads such as poie used whole wheat, many had shifted to mixing maida (refined flour), compromising the quality and taste.
Goa has secured GI registrations for around 15 products—Goan Khajem, Cashew Feni, Khola Chilli, Mancurad Mango, Agasaim Brinjal, Harmal Chilli, Myndoli Banana, Seven Ridge Okra, Goan Bebinca, Goa Cashew Kernel, Goa Cashew Apple, Mussarad/ Mussarat Mango, Hilario Mango, Khorgut Rice and Taleigao Brinjal.
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